What it usually means, the likely causes in order, what to safely try first, what a pro charges in Canada, and when to stop and call one.
This guide covers the common cases. Describe your exact problem and get a personalized diagnosis — free to start, with a DIY vs. call-a-pro verdict and a real cost estimate.
Dripping or pooling water where it shouldn't be means water is escaping somewhere it's supposed to be sealed: a failed washer or seal, a cracked pipe or fitting, or a supply-line connection that's worked loose. The single most useful thing about a leak is that water itself is the damage — the part that failed is usually cheap, but every hour it runs, it soaks flooring, cabinetry, and drywall, and wet building materials are where mould starts. So this guide is ordered differently: stop the water first, understand the leak second, fix it third.
Treat an active leak as urgent until the water is stopped. A leak you can shut off at the fixture valve and dry up is a same-week repair. A leak you can't stop, a burst pipe, or water near electrical outlets is a same-day emergency — shut off the home's main water valve and call a plumber. If you find a leak that's clearly been running a while (swollen cabinet floor, soft drywall, musty smell), the repair includes checking what the water damaged, not just what it came from.
The braided or rigid lines feeding a faucet, toilet, or appliance loosen over time, and their fittings corrode. Leaks here often appear right at the nut — sometimes a quarter-turn of tightening is the whole fix, though a connection that's loose because its washer failed needs the washer replaced, not more torque.
Rubber washers, O-rings, and cartridge seals harden and crack with age and hot water. These leaks tend to be slow drips that follow use — the fixture leaks when it runs, or drips steadily from the handle or spout base.
The chrome or plastic trap under a sink, a cracked PVC joint, or a pipe damaged by freezing or a knock can all leak under pressure or drainage. Drain-side leaks often only appear while water is running down that drain, which is a useful clue for locating them.
Water on the floor around a toilet often isn't the bowl at all — it's the supply connection, the tank-to-bowl bolts and gasket, or in the worst case the wax seal at the base. Each has a different fix, so locating the highest wet point matters.
Washing machine and dishwasher supply hoses age, bulge, and eventually split. A hose that looks blistered, rusty at the fittings, or is simply old deserves replacement before it fails, not after.
| Job size | Typical estimate (CAD) |
|---|---|
| Simple fix — the straightforward version of this repair | $120–$250 |
| Major job — complex, hidden, or replacement-level work | $400–$1,200 |
Estimates only, calibrated to Greater Toronto Area trade rates and adjusted by region on this site — not a quote. Your exact price depends on the cause, parts, and access. A personalized diagnosis narrows this range using your specific symptom.
Reasonable DIY: tightening a connection, replacing a washer, a supply line, a sink trap, or toilet tank parts — all with the water off and a bucket handy. Call a pro when the leak is inside a wall or ceiling, when a pipe itself is cracked or corroded along its length, when you can't stop the flow, when the leak is at a water heater or main valve, or whenever there's visible mould, a soft floor, or a stain that's spreading — those jobs are about the water damage as much as the plumbing.
It can wait a few days, not a few weeks. With the valve closed and the area dried, there's no ongoing damage, so you can schedule a normal (non-emergency) repair. Just leave that fixture off, check the spot daily for returning dampness, and remember the valve that stopped it is a temporary control, not a fix.
Feel it and photograph it. A cool, damp, or growing stain — or one that gets worse after showers, baths, or rain — is active. A dry, stable stain that doesn't change size over a week or two is likely historical. A moisture check plus watching it after the upstairs fixture runs usually settles it before you open any drywall.
The drip itself is minor; where the water goes is the problem. A slow leak inside a cabinet or wall can saturate wood and drywall long before it's visible, and that hidden moisture is what grows mould and rots structure. That's why even a small leak is worth locating promptly, even if the repair ends up being a two-dollar washer.
Thread tape belongs only on tapered pipe threads — it helps those seal. It doesn't fix compression fittings, supply-line nuts, or trap joints; those seal with washers and ferrules, and tape on them can actually prevent a proper seat. If a connection leaks, the washer or the fitting is the issue, not the absence of tape.
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