What it usually means, the likely causes in order, what to safely try first, what a pro charges in Canada, and when to stop and call one.
This guide covers the common cases. Describe your exact problem and get a personalized diagnosis — free to start, with a DIY vs. call-a-pro verdict and a real cost estimate.
No water, or noticeably low pressure, at one or more irrigation zones narrows the search in a helpful way: either water is not being allowed through — a closed or faulty valve — or it is escaping through a damaged underground line. The first diagnostic split is scope. One zone down points at that zone valve or line; the whole system down points at the main irrigation shut-off, the backflow device, or supply to the system. Work through that split before digging anything, because valves and shut-offs are checked in minutes at the surface, while underground lines are found by evidence, not by enthusiastic excavation.
This is rarely an emergency, but in hot weather a lawn and garden without irrigation for a week is a real loss, especially new planting, sod, or seed that depends on regular water. Move faster if you suspect a broken line: a leak underground wastes water invisibly, softens soil, and can erode under paths. If you find a saturated area or hear water running with the system off, shut the irrigation supply down and book promptly rather than letting it run.
The irrigation shut-off may have been closed for winter and only partly reopened, or a zone valve is failing to open electrically or mechanically. A system dead everywhere after seasonal start-up, or one zone that never runs while its neighbours do, fits this cause neatly.
Each zone is opened by a valve, usually triggered by a small solenoid wired to the controller. A failed solenoid, a cut wire, or a valve diaphragm worn out with age leaves one zone silent while the controller believes it is watering on schedule.
Lines get cracked by roots, frost, aerators, edging tools, and ground movement. The escaping water steals pressure from the heads, so the zone runs weakly, and a tell-tale lush or soggy patch often develops over the break while the rest of the lawn looks thirsty.
Sediment in a system filter, many heads clogging together after a repair on the supply line, or a partly blocked backflow or supply connection can throttle the whole system. Pressure that was fine last season and poor everywhere this season, without a leak in sight, deserves this check before valves are condemned.
| Job size | Typical estimate (CAD) |
|---|---|
| Simple fix — the straightforward version of this repair | $90–$150 |
| Major job — complex, hidden, or replacement-level work | $150–$500 |
Estimates only, calibrated to Greater Toronto Area trade rates and adjusted by region on this site — not a quote. Your exact price depends on the cause, parts, and access. A personalized diagnosis narrows this range using your specific symptom.
Confirming shut-offs, running manual tests, cleaning filters, and replacing an accessible solenoid are manageable for a careful homeowner. Underground line location and repair, valve replacement in a crowded box, backflow device problems, and any fault where the leak location is unknown belong with an irrigation technician who has the listening and locating tools to dig once, in the right place. If water may be escaping near the house, err toward the professional visit sooner, not after a season of soggy evidence.
It clears the supply, the main shut-off, and the controller power in one stroke, because other zones use all three successfully. The fault lives in that zone path: its valve, the solenoid or wire serving it, or its line. A manual test at the valve itself then splits the difference — if the zone runs when opened by hand, the problem is electrical; if not, it is hydraulic.
At the supply end: confirm shut-offs are fully open, check the system filter for sediment, and consider whether any plumbing work or a municipal change preceded the drop. Then look for a leak, because a single underground break can throttle everything downstream. If supply and filters are clear and no leak shows, a technician can measure pressure properly and locate where it is being lost.
The classic signs are a persistently soggy or unusually green patch along a line route, water surfacing while a zone runs, heads on that zone spraying weakly, and soil or mulch washing into a low spot. A water meter that moves when no zone should be running is another strong indicator. Note the wettest point carefully; leaks are usually close to where water actually surfaces.
Neither, entirely: the controller is reporting that it sent the command. The break in the chain is downstream — a wire fault, a dead solenoid, a valve that cannot open, or no water reaching the valve. Testing the valve manually is the fastest honest split between an electrical fault a wiring check will find and a water-supply fault it will not.
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